randytsuch wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2017 5:05 pm
Hmmm. Higher voltage = more batteries and higher expense.
Sounds like you guys are making another run at my wallet lol
yea the batt expense is killer
we could do with another ps solution
is just so easy to cheat using the lifepo4
By the time you costed an "equivalent" ps solution, I think makes lifepo4 look very appealing. And for some apps I don't know if there is anything as good, at any cost.
And A123 lifepo4's are actually getting cheaper over here, so it's not as bad as it used to be.
MSI H81-P33 MB, Xeon E3-1225 V3, LPS/LIFEPO4 and Astron RS-12A, 240gb SSD music, 2nd SSD for OS, Mod SS PCIE USB card, Server2012 R2 Ess+AO+MQn, Amanero USB to DACEND ES9018 to Schiit Lyr amp to Senn HD 700 headphones
Nige,
How close is your PS to the amp? If you move the PS relative to Amp do you get a change in hum or SQ?
In other words, could it be magnetic field or other radiated disturbance?
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jkeny wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2017 6:40 pm
Nige,
How close is your PS to the amp? If you move the PS relative to Amp do you get a change in hum or SQ?
In other words, could it be magnetic field or other radiated disturbance?
nah i just really half assed the supply
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
bypassing my half assed supply with bench supply and the the battery pack i did further subjective testing
feeding gain stage and output stage from battery pack showed substantial improvement with higher voltage (tested up to 36v)
putting the gain stages on the battery pack and the output stage solely on bench supply at same voltage ie 36 v
sound was flatter, tamer and less resolution
tested that between 16v to 64v,
no decent performance until 24v
as voltage raised it sounded more like it did with the battery pack
id say 30v is a minimum
40v is a plausible target given enough heatsinking
any more voltage is going to be difficult to dissipate
at 64 v sounded great but maybe not just as good as the battery pack at 36v,
id imagine after half an hour of 60 odd volts i could sear a steak on the heatsink
the power supply from the group buy amp would work wonders in this,
though the heatsinking would have to be more than doubled i recon
tonights the best i've heard this amp
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
Have you thought about using this amp with the output transformer to step the voltage down? If you did that then you could reduce the bias current (as the load is higher impedance). Its a great way to run at higher voltage without extra heat. Mind you we'd need a revised design for the gain stage as that tops out at 40V I think.
Deleted my first idea, because I'm pretty certain it was wrong.
Now I'm wondering if the voltage developed by R4/R5 is what controls the idle current?
I want to lower the idle current by about 10 times, maybe a little more.
Looking to build a battery powered portable head amp, something like xrk's but better lol.
Was thinking maybe use one or two lifepo4 batteries and a then cap multiplier to raise the voltage up to 16VDC.
Randy
MSI H81-P33 MB, Xeon E3-1225 V3, LPS/LIFEPO4 and Astron RS-12A, 240gb SSD music, 2nd SSD for OS, Mod SS PCIE USB card, Server2012 R2 Ess+AO+MQn, Amanero USB to DACEND ES9018 to Schiit Lyr amp to Senn HD 700 headphones