MoBo Memory Power Bypass

[IanB]

Thanks Nigel for advice, the DM2800 motherboard is now working with external power to ram although took a lot of problem solving. Main problem computer stopped with blue screen and sometimes did not boot. Tested power supply to ram and it had dropped from 1.5 volts to 1.2 volts when under load. Changed power supplies and has not missed a beat. However the replacement supply runs hot and seems to be working hard as well. It seems the autowind regulator uses quite a bit of power. If this is the case would it be advantageous to build a purpose built PSU for the ram thus taking the autowind regulator out of the equation. What would the ideal watts/amps for this PSU?

[nige2000]

Which audiowind reg did you use?
they sell quite a variety
Also what are you powering the reg with?
Va and voltage

[IanB]

I think it is the same autowind regulator that photographed by.adolfo.a.aguiar. "5 Amps Voltage Regulator Module, Output 1.5-32V, LM338T". My psu was made in Australia AJ who is well known on the Stereonet forum. It has 5 volt 80 watt rating.

[nige2000]

LM338TT should be well fit for it
So is the PSU
Very strange

Actually took my audowind lm338 out of a box couple days ago was set at 1.2vv from when I tested ram power mod
Text book consumption is about 7 watts per stick

[Sligolad]

Recently replaced the old Audiowind linear regulator for DC 1.3 volts direct to RAM on my audio PC with 2x of the 6 LT3045 Reg boards and had a really big improvement in sound quality.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendor-s ... d-pcb.html

RAM pulls about 2.9 amps at 1.3 volts on boot and settles at about 2.7 amps running.
The Audiowind regulator was fixed to the audio PC case for heat sinking and worked and it was better than the on-board switched supply on PC boards.

Adding the Stammheim boards really improved sound substantially and is now in my top three improvements for PC based playback.

The standard heat sinks will not cut it for RAM current so I made some copper heat sinks which are bolted to the case and heat never gets too hot to hold your finger on the board after several hours listening.
I used some folded terminal clips to clamp the copper to the boards and it holds well and helps keep good contact with the 3M adhesive heat transfer tape.

The left LT3045 supply is standard and while i tried an AC 6.3 volt supply i ended up going back to the available 5v DC Paul Hynes supply IN with the DC out set to 3.2v to supply the right LT3045 board. You can add DC in on the bottom of the board by soldering to the inputs of the capacitors after the diodes.

The right LT3045 board was supplied without diodes for use as DC in only and the 3.2v in drops the voltage for direct to the RAM supply in to 1.3 volts.

It really has lifted my digital playback system to new heights in enjoyment of music.

[nige2000]

http://www.ldovr.com/category-s/118.htm

these might be of interest too

but yours at 5 for the regs and 12 for the boards its not too bad either

they shouldn't be awful hard to solder on

[frd1996]

Work in progress...

[nige2000]

even better

[Sligolad]

http://www.ldovr.com/category-s/118.htm

these might be of interest too

but yours at 5 for the regs and 12 for the boards its not too bad either

they shouldn't be awful hard to solder on

Already have 2 of them in the Big7 on the Xmos card Nige and they were a good improvement.
I also have one in the Audio PC for the 3.3v to the PCIe Card supply, hard to see in the pictures as these are small boards.

Fryderyks looks the part and looking forward to trying it out :-)

[sima66]

Recently replaced the old Audiowind linear regulator for DC 1.3 volts direct to RAM on my audio PC with 2x of the 6 LT3045 Reg boards and had a really big improvement in sound quality.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendor-s ... d-pcb.html

RAM pulls about 2.9 amps at 1.3 volts on boot and settles at about 2.7 amps running.
The Audiowind regulator was fixed to the audio PC case for heat sinking and worked and it was better than the on-board switched supply on PC boards.

Adding the Stammheim boards really improved sound substantially and is now in my top three improvements for PC based playback.

The standard heat sinks will not cut it for RAM current so I made some copper heat sinks which are bolted to the case and heat never gets too hot to hold your finger on the board after several hours listening.
I used some folded terminal clips to clamp the copper to the boards and it holds well and helps keep good contact with the 3M adhesive heat transfer tape.

The left LT3045 supply is standard and while i tried an AC 6.3 volt supply i ended up going back to the available 5v DC Paul Hynes supply IN with the DC out set to 3.2v to supply the right LT3045 board. You can add DC in on the bottom of the board by soldering to the inputs of the capacitors after the diodes.

The right LT3045 board was supplied without diodes for use as DC in only and the 3.2v in drops the voltage for direct to the RAM supply in to 1.3 volts.

It really has lifted my digital playback system to new heights in enjoyment of music.

Nice job Pearce and, after watching the first page of this topic and your way of doing it, it doesn't look to complicated! :)

I can see the red wire from the Stammheim board (+1.3V), but I don't see where the black ground wire goes!

Also one out of topic question, what you have connected into the REX?

Best,
adam