AUDIO PC: Direct power to motherboad 24 and 4pin (picoless)

[nige2000]

Pretty sure from memory another 25.

It looks ripe for the picking. I figured the same, USB or LAN.

well usb is 12mhz family

When I remove the board this weekend I can take a clearer picture.

Wish I knew what that chip close to the PS2 jacks was for. Just cannot read the writing no matter what I use.

i see theres a crystal there too what frequency is that?
ok had another look if that crystal at that chip is 24mhz its likely the renasas nec usb 3 chipset same or similar to whats in the jcat usb card

So what do you think is more important? Replacing those two xtals or memory power? I am startgin to worry I may be optimistic with the BELLESON reg supplying even one stick. Going to ask Brian if I can use an outboard transistor to boost the current.

both clks and memory power are heavy sq hitters
replacing clocks is a pita and with stability issues
memory power is much simplier

[rickmcinnis]

You are right - it is 24.0 - and the chip looks like what I see at the RENASAS site.

Thanks

[rickmcinnis]

Got that second ASROCK today and see it will be simplicity to improve the power wiring.

I was concerned it was skimpy but one can tack better wire to the pins within the connectors easily.

Won't break apart but who needs that? Two fewer connectors is better every time.

One could probably do the same thing with the SATA connectors ...

[rickmcinnis]

Placed the JCAP USB card in the ASROCK - placed another battery on the 3.3 rail and ran a wire from the 5 volts rail to the back of the USB card per Marcin's suggestion.

I hear improvements in the highs and lows - not much difference in the middle. The bass is more tuneful and the high frequencies less splashy. Makes a mess of my box though!

What do you think of the, in my estimation, too long SATA cables idea? I remember when Bob Fulton said loudspeaker cables should be something like 40 feet - that seemed wrong but there are those who say it makes sense. My wallet thinks it sounds really expensive!

[nige2000]

Placed the JCAP USB card in the ASROCK - placed another battery on the 3.3 rail and ran a wire from the 5 volts rail to the back of the USB card per Marcin's suggestion.

thought that was just the way to do it

I hear improvements in the highs and lows - not much difference in the middle. The bass is more tuneful and the high frequencies less splashy. Makes a mess of my box though!

i usually find the improvement easier noticeable in the highs and lows

What do you think of the, in my estimation, too long SATA cables idea? I remember when Bob Fulton said loudspeaker cables should be something like 40 feet - that seemed wrong but there are those who say it makes sense. My wallet thinks it sounds really expensive!

definitely if your selling by the foot:)

all joking aside its just gonna have to be tested
different wire, gauges and lengths

i like to keep things short my self maybe gauge and length can be matched for optimum performance
experimentation :)

[rickmcinnis]

And nobody does more experimentation than nige2000.

Really think you need to parallel an/some extra batteries on the 3.3 rail.

Will be adding to the 5 volts rail this weekend.

I worry with many of these things, as you intimate, that just because this works (long SATA) in that set-up does not make it universal.

I will find out if it has merit in my system next week.

Will find out this evening if the 12 volts rail is even needed. Hoping it is not.

[nige2000]

And nobody does more experimentation than nige2000.

Really think you need to parallel an/some extra batteries on the 3.3 rail.

ive got 4 on the 3.3v rail

Will be adding to the 5 volts rail this weekend.

I worry with many of these things, as you intimate, that just because this works (long SATA) in that set-up does not make it universal.

yes just hooking everything up and having it functionally working aint really the goal
we must strive for constant improvement

I will find out if it has merit in my system next week.

Will find out this evening if the 12 volts rail is even needed. Hoping it is not.

for the cpu or 24pin?

[rickmcinnis]

Well, my dear friend, I believe this is the first rime I have read that you use four on the 3.3 rail. (and then you will post alink where you made it clear)

I was thinking I would add another tomorrow and now I know I will.

Constant improvement is the only way to keep the brain interested in listening to such a poor representation of the real thing. Only way it can stand it. That's what motivates me.

Since there is no one surprised but me, one does need the P24 12 volts rail to start. Now I wonder if I can boot and then switch it off? Just have to know.

Next step is memory power tomorrow.

Take care,

[nige2000]

Well I have two clocks powered from the 3.3 rail so they need to be steady the extra cells made a noticeable difference for this reason
There's two 5v packs too
And two 12v packs one for 24pin and one for CPU
I doubt there such a thing as too much

Wish I could recommend both clock replacements
Maybe one might be relatively fool proof

[rickmcinnis]

Memory power is a success.

1.32 volts BELLESON reg fed by the 5 volts pack (now composed of four cells) to insure plenty of current, the higher voltage that is, instead of using the 3.3. Just gets warm after one and one-half hours. Must not need as much power as has been speculated but then this is a 2gB stick rated at 1.35 volts. Still I worried I might end up with a roasted regulator.

More digital junk taken away, of course. No change in tonal balance but the mid bass has added attack - much more dynamic there. Starting to think there is nothing lacking there in the SOEKRIS - it is only reporting what it hears and if it is not there, oh, well ...

Will post a picture of the rat's nest.

Discovered an easy way to find which end of the choke goes to the memory. Use a strip of copper foil - lay it against the pads on the back and with a multimeter you will quickly know which hole to use.

The reg w/heat sink sits to the side of the P24 header - helped having a cleaned up MB. Will remove the onboard memory power stuff next weekend.

Worst aspect of the nige2000 supply is soldering on the tabs - second is getting the batteries down to 5 (or 12) volts. That is what takes most of the time. Always takes more time than you wish when you do something like this for the first time. But the benefit: I did not wire it up backwards. If I had it would not have been the first time.

Finally placed a pair in the SSD power line, too.

I want to do the clock thing one of these days.