Sligolad wrote:Just to be clear Adam I have one 5v Linear supply connected to the Purple lead and two reds in the picture (will work with just purple and one red off this 5v supply)
I have one 3.3v Linear supply connected to the orange lead in the picture.
Finally one 12v Linear supply connected to the yellow lead in the picture.
All the blacks connect together off all the Linear supplies and come together with the three black grounds in the picture (again will work with one black on the ATX connector)
The Intel Mobo is unique compared to the other boards I used with this ATX connector configuration in that it needs a "Special" start sequence.
You need to press and hold in the front panel Zuma start button first while you then switch in the Power Supplies otherwise the board will not start.
You let go of the front Zuma start button when you see the Front Panel light come on, Tony will confirm this.
Now, my Teradak starts when I press the power button on Zuma and shuts down when I turn off the Zuma.
Probably one (or two) of those "extra" wires are sending that signal?
I would like to keep that! :)
Not sure what you are trying to do with the ATX connector Adam...if you are using the Teradak then why would you want to remove wires when it works out of the box with sensing and everything!
I probably jumped to conclusions that you were tinkering with your home build PS and looking at how you could connect it.
Cheers, Pearse.
Sligolad wrote:Not sure what you are trying to do with the ATX connector Adam...if you are using the Teradak then why would you want to remove wires when it works out of the box with sensing and everything!
I probably jumped to conclusions that you were tinkering with your home build PS and looking at how you could connect it.
Cheers, Pearse.
I'm trying to shield the DC wires from Teradak to Zuma. Since on the 24 pin I have all the voltages and all mixed up, I thought to get rid of the "extras" and isolate and shield every voltage+ground separate.
I did one small experiment and I shielded only one SSD DC cable and the difference was kind of very big! Much more that I expected! So I decided to shield everything. I'm still trying to find the best way to do it.
First thing will be simplify then group and shield.
Sligolad wrote:Just to be clear Adam I have one 5v Linear supply connected to the Purple lead and two reds in the picture (will work with just purple and one red off this 5v supply)
I have one 3.3v Linear supply connected to the orange lead in the picture.
Finally one 12v Linear supply connected to the yellow lead in the picture.
All the blacks connect together off all the Linear supplies and come together with the three black grounds in the picture (again will work with one black on the ATX connector)
The Intel Mobo is unique compared to the other boards I used with this ATX connector configuration in that it needs a "Special" start sequence.
You need to press and hold in the front panel Zuma start button first while you then switch in the Power Supplies otherwise the board will not start.
You let go of the front Zuma start button when you see the Front Panel light come on, Tony will confirm this.
Now, my Teradak starts when I press the power button on Zuma and shuts down when I turn off the Zuma.
Probably one (or two) of those "extra" wires are sending that signal?
I would like to keep that! :)
Yea power or gnd on one of those extra wires powers up the teradac
Can't remember which it is though
Google making a bench supply from an atx
It should explain it further
Tbh I Dont think it will make any difference if you leave it on constgnd so that your not just dumping noise on gnd in a bad spot
Shielding is an improvement as long as your careful to find a good place to earth or gnd
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
I just did very simple, following some of the Kyrill advices for the cotton and Teflon tape and Stoneman(Andy) for the cooper tape and ground on the main ground(earth) on my Zuma.
Attachments
uploadfromtaptalk1419983214466.jpg (56.42 KiB) Viewed 924 times
uploadfromtaptalk1419983200769.jpg (50.35 KiB) Viewed 924 times
sima66 wrote:
I'm trying to shield the DC wires from Teradak to Zuma. Since on the 24 pin I have all the voltages and all mixed up, I thought to get rid of the "extras" and isolate and shield every voltage+ground separate.
I did one small experiment and I shielded only one SSD DC cable and the difference was kind of very big! Much more that I expected!
Ahh I see, I was on a completely different tangent....looks like we will be coming to you for advice on this one Adam.
Look forward to hear how you get on with it.
Trying to build myself up here for the RamDisk install over the coming days....
sima66 wrote:
Now, my Teradak starts when I press the power button on Zuma and shuts down when I turn off the Zuma.
Probably one (or two) of those "extra" wires are sending that signal?
I would like to keep that! :)
According to Wikipedia,
"Power on is pulled up to +5 V by the PSU, and must be driven low to turn on the PSU."
Power on is pin 16, the green wire. That's the signal from the MB to turn on the power supply.
nige2000 wrote:
randytsuch wrote:
Sligolad wrote:You will need the purple Randy so leave that on the 5v supply.
Thanks. I was pretty sure I needed the purple, but I didn't see any mention of it, and have never tried to run without it.
Pretty sure I mentioned the requirement for 5v standby at the start of the thread
That was 17 pages ago, my memory isn't nearly that good. ;)
MSI H81-P33 MB, Xeon E3-1225 V3, LPS/LIFEPO4 and Astron RS-12A, 240gb SSD music, 2nd SSD for OS, Mod SS PCIE USB card, Server2012 R2 Ess+AO+MQn, Amanero USB to DACEND ES9018 to Schiit Lyr amp to Senn HD 700 headphones
sima66 wrote:
I'm trying to shield the DC wires from Teradak to Zuma. Since on the 24 pin I have all the voltages and all mixed up, I thought to get rid of the "extras" and isolate and shield every voltage+ground separate.
I did one small experiment and I shielded only one SSD DC cable and the difference was kind of very big! Much more that I expected!
Ahh I see, I was on a completely different tangent....looks like we will be coming to you for advice on this one Adam.
Look forward to hear how you get on with it.
Trying to build myself up here for the RamDisk install over the coming days....
Yeah....I wish that I know the best or the right way to do (if there is a such thing)!
There are so many combinations and is hard to choose the best combo! The goal is to do as much as possible, but not to overdue and suck the highs! :))
Good luck with the RamDisc, that's becoming another must!
Sligolad wrote:Just to be clear Adam I have one 5v Linear supply connected to the Purple lead and two reds in the picture (will work with just purple and one red off this 5v supply)
I have one 3.3v Linear supply connected to the orange lead in the picture.
Finally one 12v Linear supply connected to the yellow lead in the picture.
All the blacks connect together off all the Linear supplies and come together with the three black grounds in the picture (again will work with one black on the ATX connector)
The Intel Mobo is unique compared to the other boards I used with this ATX connector configuration in that it needs a "Special" start sequence.
You need to press and hold in the front panel Zuma start button first while you then switch in the Power Supplies otherwise the board will not start.
You let go of the front Zuma start button when you see the Front Panel light come on, Tony will confirm this.
Sorry only noticed this now(so much being posted over the last week or so difficult to keep up when stuffed with xmas pud) Adam intel board is pita. From memory you hold the front panel button until you get a beep. It should boot up then.Nigel was right as a mobo it aint suited for what is being implemented. You need to sell some brass and just buy a haswell chip and mobo. Less stress more music