Tír Na HiFi

I bought a Mutec MC-3+ Smart Clock on a hunch last month to use as an USB to SPDIF convertor to try SPDIF in on my DAC as I have never used one before for PC based playback.
It has turned out to be a good buy at just under €1k with improved sound on DPDIF over the Amanero USB card though not by as much as I initially thought when I first listened to it.
After going back and comparing recently I decided to see if I could improve it any further and after seeing the Meanwell SMPS inside I went for a quick mod to add a Linear supply so as to bypass the 6.3v output from the internal PS.
It was an easy mod to connect onto the output pins which transfer off the PS board down to the Main Board.

It allows running the Mutec off the Linear supply by unplugging the mains in and switching on the 6.3v Linear supply which I have soldered to the plus / minus out coming off the internal PS.
To go back to main supply I just disconnect the Linear and the unit is back to factory condition.

The Linear supply is a real nice improvement and easy to hear over the stock supply.
I am using an Audiowind DC to DC Regulator fed off as Paul Hynes SR7 12v supply and it barely gets warm when running.

More listening tests to run over the coming week but for sure it will be running off a Linear Supply from here on in with the improvement in sound over the stock supply.
Will post some pictures for all below.
Cheers, Pearse.

Main Board with USB board on it below:


Main Board with USB board taken off:


USB Board removed:


Meanwell SMPS Board:


1000Mhz Clock:


Back of USB Board:


6.3v Power Out Pins off PS Board with positive left and negative right:


6.3v Supply lines soldered to Power Out Pins off PS Board with positive red left and negative yellow right:


Linear Supply in brought in through existing hole (drilled larger) in the bottom of the case:


Audiowind DC to DC Regulator for 12v to 6.3v linear supply:


Obviously Warranty is gone with this mod but these are the sacrifices you make with these mods and beware if it goes bad for you then you have no recourse, so do not attempt it if you are not willing to accept mistakes.

id try supercaps on these clks

i see this xmos chip implementation "might" have a discrete ps/ rather than in chip supply for the 1.8v for system clock
was discussing this with jk for a diyinhk i2s mod earlier

and as clk ps is crucial we need to have exceptional ps to all oscillators

Thanks Pearse
Looks interesting - 1GHz oscillator - seems crazy???
Pretty random & stupid (if you ask me) scratching off of chip IDs - why bother with voltage regulators??

whats the drivers like ?
similar to the usual thesycon?

jkeny wrote:Thanks Pearse
Looks interesting - 1GHz oscillator - seems crazy???
Pretty random & stupid (if you ask me) scratching off of chip IDs - why bother with voltage regulators??

Seems to be the way of things these days John when it comes to anything audio, seeing it in Paul Hynes Power Supplies and Lampizator Dac's as well.
It is I agree a bit over the top!!

nige2000 wrote:whats the drivers like ?<BR abp="715">similar to the usual thesycon?

Unfortunately Nige I have not tested it in a Windows environment yet, too caught up in Linux testing lately which does not need any drivers.

Sligolad wrote:

jkeny wrote:Thanks Pearse
Looks interesting - 1GHz oscillator - seems crazy???
Pretty random & stupid (if you ask me) scratching off of chip IDs - why bother with voltage regulators??

Seems to be the way of things these days John when it comes to anything audio, seeing it in Paul Hynes Power Supplies and Lampizator Dac's as well.
It is I agree a bit over the top!!

the funny bit is that tit doesn't seem to be scratching off of the "magic sauce" components its more like a random selection
maybe the chief chip scratcher isnt doing their job

at the end of the day anyone capable of copying it will be able to work out what everything is
might be a nice bit more difficult for p hynes supplies

nige2000 wrote: the funny bit is that tit doesn't seem to be scratching off of the "magic sauce" components its more like a random selection
maybe the chief chip scratcher isnt doing their job

at the end of the day anyone capable of copying it will be able to work out what everything is
might be a nice bit more difficult for p hynes supplies

Yes, Hynes knows what he's doing - these guys don't - scratching off IDs of random stuff including voltage regulators - it's nonsensical

I'm in Asia right now but have a Mutec MC-3+ USB waiting for me when I get home.

I'm currently (happily) using their MC-3+.

As I should be allowed nowhere near a soldering iron . . . for the safety of my components as well as my own safety :) , and as a big believer in the benefits of linear power supplies, is there an idiot's version of the conversion you've made?

I'm guessing not, but thought I would ask anyway.

Regardless, thanks for sharing the information.

Joel

Hard to make it much simpler Joel other than if you are not so confident with soldering in under the Power Supply the you could go for desoldering the board off the 2 pins like Uli did over here:
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-da ... ndex5.html
Going this route then you have an easy solder to the 2 pins remaining.

Bottom line if you are looking at something like this as a challenge then I would recommend not to do it yourself without help at hand from someone more comfortable with a soldering iron.
As long as you get a positive DC 6.3v to the left pin and negative to the right pin then there is nothing else I can add.
Cheers, Pearse.