Tír Na HiFi

note: direct power 12,5,3.3v into 24pin (pico bypass) is superior sq wise (will start another thread)

mark from itemaudio says the Leadex SuperFlower Gold 750W betters the pico + power brick
definitely one to consider
i have not tested it (yet)

{will add bits and pieces now and again}




the pico psu is likely the most used power supply in audio pcs, the pico and power brick has given a sq advantage over most/many std atx supplies. the pico can be purchased without the power smps brick power supply.
pairing the pico psu with a linear psu has provided a further substantial upgrade, we recommend the maplin xm21x which is good value for its sq advantage
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-97w-dc ... pply-xm21x
here below is two maplins bolted together and with a 5v psu inside as well



the reasoning behind this build is that it provides three rails 2 x 12v and a 5v
12v for pico
12v direct for 4pin psu which helps stop cpu noise going into the pico and visa versa
5v for the operating system whether ssd or usb 3, operating system media is very sensitive to noise (i recommend batteries where possible now)

the maplins need to be adjusted to 12-12.5v so turn this pot below


this is ok psu for ssd or usb 3 (batteries are better)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STONTRONICS-T ... 1e88608a7b

ok this gets lots of laughs
this was testing battery vs linear for pico psu


long story short; battery is better and didnt seem to matter if it was floating charged during playback from a maplin xm21x
these were put in series between the psu and the pc same as what yould do with a capacitor
this also had the added benefit of only requiring one maplin psu to power two 12v sla 7ah (one for 4pin cpu another for pico) no loss in sq afaik

reserve

Thats good now since you are finished insulting nice arty old men from scotland can you move on to the picoless photo's and instructions. Please make sure they are comprehensive and in big bold writing to I can see and understand it.

tony wrote:Thats good now since you are finished insulting nice arty old men from scotland can you move on to the picoless photo's and instructions. Please make sure they are comprehensive and in big bold writing to I can see and understand it.

you need direct supply into mobo sockets to improve your sq any further
that will be part 2,
the next will be part 3 "a trip to insanity" (two clks is ok really the third is really pissing me off

nige2000 wrote:

tony wrote:Thats good now since you are finished insulting nice arty old men from scotland can you move on to the picoless photo's and instructions. Please make sure they are comprehensive and in big bold writing to I can see and understand it.

you need direct supply into mobo sockets to improve your sq any further
that will be part 2,
the next will be part 3 "a trip to insanity" (two clks is ok really the third is really pissing me off

Looking forward to part 2 as it should spur me on to get on with the job. The two clocks and Ppang card and that's it then honest! Seriously after hearing yours with ppang/picoless and maybe one clock? that tangible leap in sonics is so worth it for really what is relatively beer bucks money in this hobby. Pearse's is probably the pinnacle of it but cost wise it is not effective and my hunch is it would be difficult to tell them apart. But I reckon Pearse's is more stable and neater solution.

Interesting stuff. Cheers for the links.

FYI I can vouch for this 5vdc supply.
Very suitable for USB 5vdc supply, as it is adjustable... probably SSD too.
http://www.ab-system.hk/index.php?route ... duct_id=64

got some links to appropriate battery packs? for SSD, usb cards, etc
I'm curious

2channelaudio wrote:Interesting stuff. Cheers for the links.

FYI I can vouch for this 5vdc supply.
Very suitable for USB 5vdc supply, as it is adjustable... probably SSD too.
http://www.ab-system.hk/index.php?route ... duct_id=64

very interesting supply think ive seen it mentioned before on the jplay forum


these seem to be popular
http://www.amazon.co.uk/13000mAh-Portab ... s=anker+5v

ive the older model that turns itself off if current draw is too low sounds ok/good

this is ok too and works oob no issues and you can float charge during playback via usb port with not too much sq loss
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Raptor-30-NiM ... 337dba6489
but i prefer lifepo4

my usb3 os is fully operational at 3.3v

battery chemistries sound different? think so

tony wrote:

nige2000 wrote:

tony wrote:Thats good now since you are finished insulting nice arty old men from scotland can you move on to the picoless photo's and instructions. Please make sure they are comprehensive and in big bold writing to I can see and understand it.

you need direct supply into mobo sockets to improve your sq any further
that will be part 2,
the next will be part 3 "a trip to insanity" (two clks is ok really the third is really pissing me off

Looking forward to part 2 as it should spur me on to get on with the job. The two clocks and Ppang card and that's it then honest! Seriously after hearing yours with ppang/picoless and maybe one clock? that tangible leap in sonics is so worth it for really what is relatively beer bucks money in this hobby. Pearse's is probably the pinnacle of it but cost wise it is not effective and my hunch is it would be difficult to tell them apart. But I reckon Pearse's is more stable and neater solution.

Tony, I can change the clocks for you. You'll just have to point them to me!
Ask Nigel about my "fine" work! :))))))))

have visions Adam of a sledgehammer or 9 inch angle grinder.

The teradak I have seen mentioned previously maybe worth checking out for me but afaik is it either expensive here or requires import from non eu. Nigels method because I have heard and seen it is my preferred route tbh.