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sima66 wrote:

nige2000 wrote:

sima66 wrote:
Anything what can be done now to improve/fix those weak areas on TeraDak?

You need to test for potential sq increase
This can be some by getting some lifepo4 cells
Trying them in different places
I'd be surprised if there wasn't increase in sq in regards noise floor, dynamics, bass control and detail
All those things we love :)
http://e-greenmotion.com/index.php?rout ... duct_id=53

Delivery is slow though
Best to get at least 8 cells

Batteries are my next project and I will need your butt to make them work! ;-) You can run, but you can't hide! :))))
The question is what would you do different in Teradak at this stage (beside adding batteries)? :)))))

both a funny answer and serious

two teradaks :)

teradak only has one isolation transformer per voltage rail
meaning that your usb card, ssd etc is on the same rail sharing each others noise
same as 12v sharing and spreading noise
two teradak is insane even for you;) and i doubt it will be an optimum method either
thats why batteries especially lithium types work so well
they are both isolation and capacitance in droves and can be maintained by a shared transformer/linear supply

as i said before getting a few battery cells just to test vs the teradak will give piece of mind that your going in the right direction
once your happy with that i can help you make a workable battery solution

For example for my SSD, to make something "a la Bakoon" I will need two(right?) of those batteries plus what else?

From your experience, do you think that it would make any difference/improvement if I "chamber" the transformers from the rest of the electronics in the TeraDak enclosure?
Something like I did to my Zuma.
Or, maybe you a different idea?

Think twice before you answer!!! :)))

sima66 wrote:For example for my SSD, to make something "a la Bakoon" I will need two(right?) of those batteries plus what else?

i wouldnt stop at one 5v output as every additional pair of cells will provide a isolated/filtered output
so how many 5 v devices do you have ?

From your experience, do you think that it would make any difference/improvement if I "chamber" the transformers from the rest of the electronics in the TeraDak enclosure?
Something like I did to my Zuma.
Or, maybe you a different idea?

yes im sure that would help, but but there is far bigger issues

Think twice before you answer!!! :)))

nige2000 wrote:i wouldnt stop at one 5v output as every additional pair of cells will provide a isolated/filtered output
so how many 5 v devices do you have ?

On 5V I have only the two SSD's. My Sotm USB card is running at 12V (card might be changed in the future).
Soon as I will be able to locate my MoBo clocks, I will change them myself!!! :))))))

The reason I asked how many batteries and what else I need for only one output, is just to get better idea of what I'm doing (the clearer picture)!

sima66 wrote:

nige2000 wrote:i wouldnt stop at one 5v output as every additional pair of cells will provide a isolated/filtered output
so how many 5 v devices do you have ?

On 5V I have only the two SSD's. My Sotm USB card is running at 12V (card might be changed in the future).
Soon as I will be able to locate my MoBo clocks, I will change them myself!!! :))))))

The reason I asked how many batteries and what else I need for only one output, is just to get better idea of what I'm doing (the clearer picture)!

make my usb card its not as difficult as it looks

2 cells for 5v and 4 for 12v

mobo clks can be difficult for the first time

For those interested...

There is a 'group-buy' thread started on CA (JPlay & head-fi are also 'targeted' I think).
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f10-m ... dak-21810/

I'm in for a single box. See how it goes. I managed to get an additional 5VSB unused line on the provided loom & will use that on 2 battery banks for OS-SSD & a PPA-USB in line with advice & comments from nige..

cheers,
Hans

I hope so.

Can't post them at the other place.

Curious - are you using something like the BROWN DOG adapter as the basis for your DAC?
http://cimarrontechnology.com/narrowwid ... 31102.aspx

Seems like an easy to use module.

You had mentioned you were less than impressed by the DDDAC's ground plane arrangement. How are you doing that?

I will stay with the mainboard for the "delay" - quicker than typing register shift every time.

I can understand if you do not want to discuss DACs in this thread.

This question is about how you are connecting the batteries.

Got mine today. Have had no luck finding someone to weld tabs so the only option is soldering.

Ordered some flux for soldering aluminum. My plan is to use copper strip for the tabs. The same stuff foil coils are wound with. The flux I plan to use will work with both metals

It is not clear in the thread if you soldered your tabs - if you did, do you have any advice to offer?

From what I have seen one cleans the end of the battery with a wire brush - seems a fine sandpaper might be better and easier to deal with than a brush - then quickly place some flux on the spot and with solder iron ready to go one tins the end.

Do basically the same for the tab.

With something to hold all in place, preferable something to hold the battery steady and place the tab in position so one can use both hands to quickly solder the two pieces together.

Any additions or deletions to this regimen would be appreciated.

rickmcinnis wrote:I can understand if you do not want to discuss DACs in this thread.

This question is about how you are connecting the batteries.

Got mine today. Have had no luck finding someone to weld tabs so the only option is soldering.

getting them with tabs welded is best
i did get some without if you have a really good hot iron with a huge tip you can use leaded solder
otherwise youll be doing this in front of the fire with a red glowing poker
because these batteries suck the heat out like mad

Ordered some flux for soldering aluminum. My plan is to use copper strip for the tabs. The same stuff foil coils are wound with. The flux I plan to use will work with both metals

It is not clear in the thread if you soldered your tabs - if you did, do you have any advice to offer?

From what I have seen one cleans the end of the battery with a wire brush - seems a fine sandpaper might be better and easier to deal with than a brush - then quickly place some flux on the spot and with solder iron ready to go one tins the end.

Do basically the same for the tab.

With something to hold all in place, preferable something to hold the battery steady and place the tab in position so one can use both hands to quickly solder the two pieces together.

Any additions or deletions to this regimen would be appreciated.

yea just clean with sandpaper for sure it wont stick otherwise
try not to breach 20 sec for solder

Thanks, nige2000.

I am hoping this "special" flux will allow it to be done in much less than 20 seconds for the initial solder blob to stick. I figure MUCH less time for the final attachment. I will know soon enough.

Though I am curious - what temperature is "hot" for this application? My station allows 400 degrees C.

Will that be sufficient? I do have large tips.

Not looking forward to this process but I have no other choice.