Tír Na HiFi

wushuliu wrote:(Weird, I thought I responded, but maybe I dreamt it)

Correct per gstew. And no way I'm doing that mod to the Oppo, replacing the clocks was dicey enough!

Nige, do you think it would be worth it to add a flipflop to the wm8004?

bare in mind as i dont know what an oppo 103 is exactly need a bit more info
had a quick flick though the diya thread lots of good stuff but missed the i2s tapping bit

i see an audio output board, you want to replace that with soekris?
whats the audio signal coming in with that ribbon cable... spdif?

hmm..
think i got your thinking
spdif out to wm8004 to reclocking flip flop to soekris i2s input ( flip flop clocked from soekris master clock)

keep all with good power and should be worth a shot

nige2000 wrote:hmm..
think i got your thinking
spdif out to wm8004 to reclocking flip flop to soekris i2s input ( flip flop clocked from soekris master clock)

keep all with good power and should be worth a shot

Exactly. I'll give it a go...

heres a scribble



might be interesting test having the two audio frequency clks with a switch on OE
synchronously clocking the wm8804 and 574 ff
maybe it would negate need for ff ?
but probably not

otherwise use the soekris masterclock out for both

just a thought....
in a thinking out aloud type of way.......

Interesting. The WM8804 datasheet says this though:

In hardware mode, the OSCCLK
must be 12MHz and hence the external crystal (or applied XIN
clock) must be 12MHz. No other OSCCLK frequencies are supported in hardware mode.

This is the WM8804 board I'm using:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wolfson-WM8804- ... xyuaFSL~Vx

Which is hardware mode only...

Hm, maybe this board might be better? Has software mode switches.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WM8804-S-PDIF-T ... SwOVpXff2T

should have read more than the first page of the data sheet i guess..........

suppose id just go with a 12mhz tcxo or an ndk or equivalent then

maybe just put a wm8804 on an adapter board and power it from a battery

nige2000 wrote:maybe just put a wm8804 on an adapter board and power it from a battery

Eventually I will remove the LDO on the current board and power directly the 3.3 V from a battery but one step at a time!

wushuliu wrote:

nige2000 wrote:maybe just put a wm8804 on an adapter board and power it from a battery

Eventually I will remove the LDO on the current board and power directly the 3.3 V from a battery but one step at a time!

well u could leave the ldo on there not powered and just add the 3.3v
the caps will slow the speed of the battery but still will be a good indicator