Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Anything to do with computer audio, hardware, software etc.
sima66
Posts: 872
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2013 7:35 pm
Location: Canada

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by sima66 »

Sligolad wrote:
sima66 wrote:My DC cables from batteries to SSD's & clocks are 75cm long.
"! :(
If it is any consolation Adam the Hynes Cables are at least 80cms long, they are silver coated solid copper core and as stiff as hell so I have to be careful not to bend them too much or too often.
Cheers, Pearse.
Oh, Pearse, stop bragging with "mine is longer and stiff as hell"!!!

Rick, I wish that I can listen to it! The length of the cables will be a less problem to solve.
Due to big love to this crazy hobby and desire to improve and get better and better sound, I started to play with this PS. The idea was just to follow the already set Nigel's route and "just connect this wire here and that wire there" without a really understanding why!
This is one the things where "everything is OK, but doesn't work"! It played for couple of minutes until the voltage drop well below and screwed my SSD's. Something in the chain is malfunctioning!

Randy, if we get this battery PS working, moving batteries close to mobo, or moving mobo closer to the batteries will be first thing to do, I already have some ideas!
I5 4440+TXCOmobo+JCAT Femto-Intona-JKRegen+HynesPS+TeraDak ATX-820W=JCATusb=DiverterHR=Wadia 931/922(GNSC mod)=PassLabsXA100.5=2xValhalla=Stacked&moded ESL57+JAS SuperTweet+2MJ Acoustics Ref.I
4SteinHarmonizers;RR777;Tellus;StillpointsUltraSS
nige2000
Posts: 4253
Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:47 am
Location: meath

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by nige2000 »

sima66 wrote:
Sligolad wrote:
sima66 wrote:My DC cables from batteries to SSD's & clocks are 75cm long.
"! :(
If it is any consolation Adam the Hynes Cables are at least 80cms long, they are silver coated solid copper core and as stiff as hell so I have to be careful not to bend them too much or too often.
Cheers, Pearse.
Oh, Pearse, stop bragging with "mine is longer and stiff as hell"!!!

Rick, I wish that I can listen to it! The length of the cables will be a less problem to solve.
Due to big love to this crazy hobby and desire to improve and get better and better sound, I started to play with this PS. The idea was just to follow the already set Nigel's route and "just connect this wire here and that wire there" without a really understanding why!
This is one the things where "everything is OK, but doesn't work"! It played for couple of minutes until the voltage drop well below and screwed my SSD's. Something in the chain is malfunctioning!

Randy, if we get this battery PS working, moving batteries close to mobo, or moving mobo closer to the batteries will be first thing to do, I already have some ideas!
on my test build i placed the batteries around the mobo to allow for shortest possible cable runs

caps will alter the sound many will dull or slow you may find something suitable but id prefer to go without and use the battery cells as caps if possible
i know thats not the norm but i gotta go with what i hear
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
rickmcinnis
Posts: 588
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:01 pm

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by rickmcinnis »

Back in the cMP era it was routine to add caps to the P24 cable so they would be close to the board. It made a nice improvement.

With either the nige2000 battery supply and with the HYNES supply this is not needed nor advantageous. I know Hynes recommended against any capacitance after the reg and Nigel recommends no capacitors after the batteries based upon his experience. So for those who go this route that is an advantage because splicing caps into the P24 cable was a PAIN.

Many folks would add a tiny choke before the caps. I never bothered with this since I felt the value of the choke so small as to be marginally effective. I had considered using some big HAMMONDS .1H 5 amps less than one ohm resistance but never got around to it. About that time I built my linear supply with BELLESON regulators. Shortly thereafter my third JULI@ went bad (certainly not by itself - another component modified to death) and I went back to analogue and have dabbled with digital once becoming aware of Mqn.

I worried that even that much resistance could interact badly with the switcher though my curiosity is still there. It would be really neat if three large chokes after one of the good switchers would be 90% of the battery set-up it could be enticing - it would turn on when directed every time!

Funny thing is with a good working turntable one is not motivated properly to get it finished. Not to say I am one of those who think analogue is without fault. The difference may be I know how to work with a turntable and the "art" is pretty much settled. Digital playback is moving very quickly and I cannot pick the point to jump in. I keep finding ideas I want to use.

After that soliloquy I can say I am making real progress and hope to have the digital system installed by Christmas. If you can end wars by Christmas you should be able to get a battery powered computer working by the same deadline, right? As you have guessed since wars never seem to end in time for Christmas I have left myself an out.
phonograph, amplifiers & speakers
randytsuch
Posts: 395
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2014 4:19 am

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by randytsuch »

rickmcinnis wrote:Back in the cMP era it was routine to add caps to the P24 cable so they would be close to the board. It made a nice improvement.

With either the nige2000 battery supply and with the HYNES supply this is not needed nor advantageous. I know Hynes recommended against any capacitance after the reg and Nigel recommends no capacitors after the batteries based upon his experience. So for those who go this route that is an advantage because splicing caps into the P24 cable was a PAIN.
So I stand corrected. I didn't realize that Hynes didn't recommend caps after the reg. I remember Nige saying he didn't like adding a cap, but that was for a specific application across an oscillator.

In my setup, with my DIY linear PS, the caps do seem to help, but this is obviously a one off, so I guess it doesn't apply to any of you.

And at some point in the near future, I will try adding some larger LIFEPO4 batteries to my PC, and then see if the caps help or hurt, but it would still be based on my unique system.

And the caps I am using are Jensen 4 pole electrolytics. I think Mundorf rebrands them, but they are unique, and work very well in power supply applications. Also, the 4 pole caps are easier to add in this type of application. They are in series, there are + and - input and + and - output terminals. But they can be a pain to add if you're replacing a normal cap.

Randy
MSI H81-P33 MB, Xeon E3-1225 V3, LPS/LIFEPO4 and Astron RS-12A, 240gb SSD music, 2nd SSD for OS, Mod SS PCIE USB card, Server2012 R2 Ess+AO+MQn, Amanero USB to DACEND ES9018 to Schiit Lyr amp to Senn HD 700 headphones
tony
Posts: 3144
Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:36 pm

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by tony »

Might have to change the name of this thread! Some great ideas Nigel what sort of caps are you referring to?
The Jensen ones I take it cost a fair bit?
If I understand right putting them either before or after is just a case of suck and see. Cost of these things will decide if they are worth a punt.
GroupBuySD DAC/First Watt AlephJ/NigeAmp/Audio PC's/Lampi L4.5 Dac/ Groupbuy AD1862 DHT Dac /Quad ESL63's.Tannoy Legacy Cheviots.
tony
Posts: 3144
Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:36 pm

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by tony »

nige2000 wrote:I know I've mentioned before but don't under estimate the power supplies influence on the clock
The difference between powering the ppa usb card with lifepo4 was greater than the move from mobo usb port to ppa usb card
You pointed that out at the last meet. Will have a look at doing it over the xmas break. Too many bits and pieces/work/social events going on, too much risk of a Pearsie if I go at it now.
GroupBuySD DAC/First Watt AlephJ/NigeAmp/Audio PC's/Lampi L4.5 Dac/ Groupbuy AD1862 DHT Dac /Quad ESL63's.Tannoy Legacy Cheviots.
sbgk
Posts: 1950
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:45 pm

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by sbgk »

I used to have one of these

http://www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/67-s ... r-supply-s

it's a 2 box solution with the regulator closer to the end device, made a difference to the bits.
randytsuch
Posts: 395
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2014 4:19 am

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by randytsuch »

tony wrote: The Jensen ones I take it cost a fair bit?
If I understand right putting them either before or after is just a case of suck and see. Cost of these things will decide if they are worth a punt.
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog ... 8_393.html

I use the 10,000 uf ones, so 24 pounds.
MSI H81-P33 MB, Xeon E3-1225 V3, LPS/LIFEPO4 and Astron RS-12A, 240gb SSD music, 2nd SSD for OS, Mod SS PCIE USB card, Server2012 R2 Ess+AO+MQn, Amanero USB to DACEND ES9018 to Schiit Lyr amp to Senn HD 700 headphones
nige2000
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Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:47 am
Location: meath

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by nige2000 »

randytsuch wrote:
tony wrote: The Jensen ones I take it cost a fair bit?
If I understand right putting them either before or after is just a case of suck and see. Cost of these things will decide if they are worth a punt.
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog ... 8_393.html

I use the 10,000 uf ones, so 24 pounds.
Ah yes 24 pound each but how do you know they are the best
You always end up buying several different ones to compare
diy is full of hidden cost ;)
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
tony
Posts: 3144
Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:36 pm

Re: Paul Hynes SR7EHD Power Supply

Post by tony »

nige2000 wrote:
randytsuch wrote:
tony wrote: The Jensen ones I take it cost a fair bit?
If I understand right putting them either before or after is just a case of suck and see. Cost of these things will decide if they are worth a punt.
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog ... 8_393.html

I use the 10,000 uf ones, so 24 pounds.
Ah yes 24 pound each but how do you know they are the best
You always end up buying several different ones to compare
diy is full of hidden cost ;)
Well lets see what develops and maybe do some more digging. Maybe in the new year
I will take one for the team and see if this works if we can find some data on positive results. Of course there is always a price! I will need me clocks to be glued to me board by a good plumber?
GroupBuySD DAC/First Watt AlephJ/NigeAmp/Audio PC's/Lampi L4.5 Dac/ Groupbuy AD1862 DHT Dac /Quad ESL63's.Tannoy Legacy Cheviots.
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