Output relays went in today and seems to work very well. As it sits right now, there's a delay of about 15s at turn off and the little turn off pop that was there is take care of.
Voltmeters next.
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 11:08 pm
by nige2000
i could not detect sq loss with early speaker relay prototypes
are we still good?
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 4:13 pm
by Fran
We are still good. No SQ loss that I can detect.
I noticed the relays do get slightly warm - they are probably the warmest thing in the whole amp - and even at that they are probably only 35degC. That was after it had been on for hours and hours yesterday.
Voltmeters next.
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 4:29 pm
by jkeny
Fran wrote: ↑Sun Jun 18, 2017 4:13 pm
We are still good. No SQ loss that I can detect.
I noticed the relays do get slightly warm - they are probably the warmest thing in the whole amp - and even at that they are probably only 35degC. That was after it had been on for hours and hours yesterday.
Voltmeters next.
The heat is due to the voltage/current needed to turn them on & keep them on - I presume they are non-latching relays
One way of overcoming this would be to use latching relays but would need to figure out a way of turning relay off - reversing voltage polarity to control pins
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 4:51 pm
by Fran
they're simple non-latching relays John - yes, its just the coil current I think. I don't think its worth the redesign it would take to change to non-latching. Ah its hardly a problem - just pointing it out for others when they go at it themselves.
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 12:13 am
by nige2000
We can try changing the relay signal resistor for a higher value
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 9:01 pm
by Fran
Voltmeters went in tonight - switched them on the positive so they're off at the flick of a switch. Powered off a mid point around 14V (although there was no difference in brightness from 4V up. Simple little double pole toggle switch needed.