Tír Na HiFi

nige2000 wrote:yea your diagram looks ok
I2s connects to d and out on q
Inverted q is not used
Preset and clear is connected to vcc

Master clock to cp

All easy in theory but the wiring is a little messier than the 574 chips

Also, now that I see the 574 datasheet I can see why that would be a lot easier...

Have you seen this:

http://asoyaji.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/dxio768k.html

I found it trying to troubleshoot my Dac last night. I ended up getting one of these cards and swapped it out for my waveio that has been doing good service for 2 years or more. Initial testing went well and I noticed a small but definite improvement in clarity. I've been doing some quite major surgery to my DAC recently (having finally received order from Paul Hynes...that's 2-3 years of my life that I won't get back - but yes, it is worth the wait!!) and once I'd ascertained that the new usb-I2S card worked I stripped the DAC completely and then put it all back together with various power supply improvements.

However, now it's all back together I've realised that it won't lock to anything above 88.2k/24bit. 176 & 192 tracks just produce the odd click - ie no lock on the dac board. I spent last night fiddling with the dip switches on the Bufallo DAC boards but nothing makes any change. Tonight, I'm going to put the waveio back in and see whether that helps. It'll turn out to be something stupid like too long or too narrow ufl leads but it's r annoying.

Looking forward to see how you get on with this Crom, i received the board a couple of weeks back but have not connected it up yet.
I have the connections soldered on but yet to hook it up on the Big7.

I also have a JL Sounds board with the separate Crystek Oscillators soldered up and ready to test but again awaiting a weekend to get around to this.

If you succeed with the separate clocks on the DXIO board I might then try the Neutron Star clocks i also have sitting around to see how they work.

Is everyone using 5v in on the board or has anyone found where to inject 3.3v yet?

Hey sligolad, long time and all that ;-)

The card is a keeper (thanks for the tipoff Nig). I sorted out the problem. Switched the Fifo card into high speed mode and it just kicked into action. I was clutching at straws really as there was no reason that it should not have worked in normal speed mode - as I have 45/49M clocks...but worked and it sounds great.

As far as I remember the card is 3.3v but I haven't tried a lifepo. TBH I am afraid to as it will most probably be better but my aim is to build a system that I can just switch on and listen to - oh how kids changed my perspective?! _ as opposed to run through some arcane start up procedure :-)

Comparison with waveio card is a bit unfair as we know which one came first and we know the design has been copied many times but it uses the latest chips and is a mite more focused sounding. If Lorien designs waveio2 I shall certainly buy that.

Incidentally, I really like the neutron star clocks. They are stupid money and there is actually a project on diya that I am sure might rival the performance but my build/fiddle time is too limited now. I have 2 clocks on the FIFO in my dac and then 1 on the usb output card and one replacing the 25M clock on the audioplayer motherboard.

In my case They added a more realistic timbre to individual instruments and helped separation...kinda what you'd expect. A small but appreciable improvement.

the new diyinhk card is 3.3v only
5v will kill it

The older xmos chips use built in intergrated switcher regulators
Like from 5 to 3.3 to 1.8 for system clock and 1.2 for core
Which is a flawed system
Ive bypassed most of it with great benefit
Afair this new chip requires allpower discretly and in this board its all linear
But i think theres more to this board than just better power

Apologies Nige, its printed on the board at 3.3v, not sure what I was thinking of there.
Great that you can just hook up a LiPo to it direct then.
Too many 5v boards knocking around here at the moment so good to see one finally with 3.3v in on it.

Sligolad wrote:Apologies Nige, its printed on the board at 3.3v, not sure what I was thinking of there.
Great that you can just hook up a LiPo to it direct then.
Too many 5v boards knocking around here at the moment so good to see one finally with 3.3v in on it.

Heard of someone blowing one with 5
Yea its pretty good direct lifepo4 then linear
But makes it a little harder on power which doesnt matter much
Also good it doesnt need handshake

I managed to get hold of one of these second hand last week:

http://www.rendu.sonore.us/USB.html

...yes, it's silly money for a usb card but it's a significant step beyond any card I've heard so far and embues a more natural texture to instruments along with a deeper soundstage better separation etc etc...I was v surprised at the level to which this card improved things especially given the level of isolation, re-clocking etc I've already built into my DAC.

For the record, I bypassed the primary reg on the clean side even before powering up and I haven't bothered to do anything with the power on the USB side but I might try powering it separately to the 5v USB line in the future. Worth it if you can find one and if not, then I would think that swapping out the clocks on the DIYINHK for crysteks would show decent returns.

Nice looking board alright Crom and uses the same clocks as I am using on the JLSounds board.

Seems lke you can never have enough isolation on USB these days, there seems to be improvements had with multiple isolation chips as well as devices like the Intona.

Playing about with these USB boards and clocks has really opened up my DAC this year, hard to believe how limited we have been with all the first generation Amanero and Xmos cards up until now.

I ordered the latest board from Diyinhk with Isolation so hoping to have it soon to play with, lots going on and new gear coming out this year, hoping John Kenny has some new USB kit to bring to the table this year as well :-))

http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/ ... d-pcb.html