It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
I have no hair Nigel! It is a heat gun/paint stripper
GroupBuySD DAC/First Watt AlephJ/NigeAmp/Audio PC's/Lampi L4.5 Dac/ Groupbuy AD1862 DHT Dac /Quad ESL63's.Tannoy Legacy Cheviots.
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
ah ok thats worth a shot
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
took a few measurements this morning
how does it compare with what you have Pearse?
was also thinking we could save some alu by shortening the heat spreader moving the oustide heat sink mounting holes to in between the diode and reg same as the inside mounting holes
how does it compare with what you have Pearse?
was also thinking we could save some alu by shortening the heat spreader moving the oustide heat sink mounting holes to in between the diode and reg same as the inside mounting holes
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
The 60mm and 120mm looks right by my measurements Nige and that is what I used for the patterns.
I think with the 2 boards centered on the Heat Riser with a gap of about 5mm between them and the riser centered to the 2 Case Finned Heat-sinks the 60mm and the 120mm tapped holes should break out between fins and avoid hitting fins when drilling.
You could cut down the length of the aluminium heat riser which is currently 300mm long to about 260mm leaving out the external holes like you mentioned but check first if using the gap between the 8th and 9th regulator will have a hole come out between the fins on the Case Finned Heat-sinks.
My measurement tell me we would add holes at 210mm apart to fit between these regulators.
I think with the 2 boards centered on the Heat Riser with a gap of about 5mm between them and the riser centered to the 2 Case Finned Heat-sinks the 60mm and the 120mm tapped holes should break out between fins and avoid hitting fins when drilling.
You could cut down the length of the aluminium heat riser which is currently 300mm long to about 260mm leaving out the external holes like you mentioned but check first if using the gap between the 8th and 9th regulator will have a hole come out between the fins on the Case Finned Heat-sinks.
My measurement tell me we would add holes at 210mm apart to fit between these regulators.
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SD Card DAC, Gryphon Essence Mono's & Pre Amp, Wilson Alexia 2 Speakers,VPI Scout 2 & Supatrac arm, Studer A812 R2R.
SD Card DAC, Gryphon Essence Mono's & Pre Amp, Wilson Alexia 2 Speakers,VPI Scout 2 & Supatrac arm, Studer A812 R2R.
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
damn...........
nope that was a bit of a brain fart the holes don't line up , suggested holes will be in the middle of a fin of the heat sink
probably why i didnt do it that way the first time
will have to stick to original plan
nope that was a bit of a brain fart the holes don't line up , suggested holes will be in the middle of a fin of the heat sink
probably why i didnt do it that way the first time
will have to stick to original plan
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
I think the LEDs are just teh right brightness - but we can tune that using the power resistor. I put the heatshrink around some and not around others but to be honest it made no difference. These were 5mm LEDs, we could could use 3mm if we wanted. Not sure exactly how much difference it would make in that case.
fran
fran
Do or do not, there is no try
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
yea i was just looking at these 2mm with similar thoughtsFran wrote: ↑Sun May 14, 2017 8:36 pm I think the LEDs are just teh right brightness - but we can tune that using the power resistor. I put the heatshrink around some and not around others but to be honest it made no difference. These were 5mm LEDs, we could could use 3mm if we wanted. Not sure exactly how much difference it would make in that case.
fran
with trying to focus the light forward rather than to the side
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121898836474?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
hadnt thought of heatshrink
maybe with heatshrink and thin front lens will focus better?
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
these are the volt meters we're thinking of putting in the front panel
to show the voltage of the positive and negative power supplies so two meters in total
really just for piece of mind - knowing the power supply is working flawlessly without looking for a screwdriver or multimeter
i actually think its super cool but im probably just a tad nerdy
it should look something like this in the panel
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
its less blurry in reality
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
Re: It didn't explode....... YET (aka niges amp)
They look great Nigel.....
Do or do not, there is no try