Tír Na HiFi

well youve drained the batteries a few times maybe the 12v died
otherwise its probably gnd
as i mentioned before gnd is often earthed
so pc monitor lz amps and quads
continuity test between the earth and gnd on these devices out of curiosity
id disconnect the earth on the monitor knock that on the head first

nige2000 wrote:well youve drained the batteries a few times maybe the 12v died
otherwise its probably gnd
as i mentioned before gnd is often earthed
so pc monitor lz amps and quads
continuity test between the earth and gnd on these devices out of curiosity
id disconnect the earth on the monitor knock that on the head first

12v motorcycle batteries were always fairly poor. It had 10amps in them so not drained but enough I think to stop the pc working ok.

On the earthing it is something alright. Amp on/off blows it.ESL's same. Funnily enough trying Pearse's teddy pardo on the HDD and plugged out existing wallwart and plugged the teddy in powered on and no issue. Maybe the 'competently designed' crew have a point.
The LZ on and off blow the pc also my thinking is it is the + on the usb. Will have to try taping that off(should have done it ages ago)

The pc monitor I don't think the earth is a problem.Plugging in and out has no effect on the PC.

BTW sounding great tonight with the 63's. You will have to do a production run of those msi boards Nigel with 2 clocks!

tony wrote:

nige2000 wrote:well youve drained the batteries a few times maybe the 12v died
otherwise its probably gnd
as i mentioned before gnd is often earthed
so pc monitor lz amps and quads
continuity test between the earth and gnd on these devices out of curiosity
id disconnect the earth on the monitor knock that on the head first

12v motorcycle batteries were always fairly poor. It had 10amps in them so not drained but enough I think to stop the pc working ok.

On the earthing it is something alright. Amp on/off blows it.ESL's same. Funnily enough trying Pearse's teddy pardo on the HDD and plugged out existing wallwart and plugged the teddy in powered on and no issue. Maybe the 'competently designed' crew have a point.
The LZ on and off blow the pc also my thinking is it is the + on the usb. Will have to try taping that off(should have done it ages ago)

The pc monitor I don't think the earth is a problem.Plugging in and out has no effect on the PC.

BTW sounding great tonight with the 63's. You will have to do a production run of those msi boards Nigel with 2 clocks!

well the monitor could be the gnd loop link between pc and lz,amp,quads etc
so try unearthing it to see if it stops been as sensitive
wont take long

No! Things are never easy, the three kettle leads looking at me all have moulded plugs!
It isn't the monitor anyway. Amp/LZ or Speakers.

tony wrote:No! Things are never easy, the three kettle leads looking at me all have moulded plugs!
It isn't the monitor anyway. Amp/LZ or Speakers.

youre hard to help

Bump

Hey guys, how big should the toroid trafo be when building seperate PSU's for usbcard, ssd, hdd, and ram or is it just easier with batteries?

darkpink wrote:Bump

Hey guys, how big should the toroid trafo be when building seperate PSU's for usbcard, ssd, hdd, and ram or is it just easier with batteries?

ppa v3 cards need quite a bit of power to run the oven other usb cards will be ok at 1 amp supply capacity
dunno about 3.5 inch hdd drives but ssds and 2.5 drives will require less than 500ma
ram is awkward as its low voltage high amperage
as long as you match the voltages reasonably close (ie 6/7v ac for 5v supply) they will be reasonably efficient

i usually dont buy anything under 30va for this stuff
larger ones may preform better

ok thanks! now its time to blow some shit up :P

The MSI H97M E35 motherboard can be added to the list of boards that have no problem with nige2000's battery supply.

Started right up.

To think how long I have dragged out this project due to my fear that it would not work!

I wonder/hope I did not have the batteries fully charged because after about fifteen minutes of listening to the (excellent) new BLUR album the sound stopped. The computer was still running fine, but the USB card was lost.

I am using a video card to relieve the CPU of those duties and wonder if it is using up more power than the float chargers can replace? ANY opinions great one?

Letting the batteries float charge during the day and will know more this evening. Also, expecting what is supposed to be a very low power consuming video card to arrive today. If that does not work I might have to return to onboard VGA.

Since I did not get a chance to listen very long to the batteries I offer these tentative impressions; there is better low level detail to be expected with a reduction in computer noise, AS everyone has noted the bass is more authoritative - not as gauzy but that was about as far as I got before the sound went away.

Maybe I need to power that JCAT USB card separately? Kind of nervous to do surgery on it since I spent so much money on it but I know it would be better. Do you think I could do basically the same things you did for the SILVERSTONE card? If I block the slot power would the inlet at the back power the card? I need to check with them since there are jumpers that control the power to the USB jacks (in my case jumpers are removed) I wonder if those jumpers might have the same control over overall power or just the USB power? Sure would make it easy.

nige2000, do you have any idea about that?

I think i made a very neat install. For sbgk's sake I will post a picture tomorrow. The batteries are right at the motherboard. I used a shortened standard P24 cable with the appropriate wires attached to the appropriate batteries. The float chargers are mounted externally, sitting on the floor with about four feet of CAT6 cable as the umbilical for each rail. I used the Hong Kong regulator boards as recommended by nige2000 and Hommond split bobbin transformers since I hate toroids. The power switch for the chargers is a single pole switch which on one end all of the float charger's grounds are brought together and the other attaches to the ground bundle compromising all of the P24 ground wires in combination with the wires coming from the battery's grounds.

From what I can tell no power flows into the motherboard when the computer is off so a switch there is not needed. One can always remove the P24 header from the motherboard if they wished. I removed the lock tab which makes it easy to do.

One curious thing, even with the ground wire power switch for the float supplies OFF the LED on the 12 volts regulator will light dimly. How the hell that happens is beyond me unless my switch is not fully off when it is in the OFF position. This is a large format switch with silver contacts, not a cheapie.

Forgot to mention the 12 volts reg's LED lights when the ground switch is off and the "floaters" are not plugged in. How could power from the batteries be making it back to this reg?

Obviously, HAMMOND was intended to be HAMMOND.