Tír Na HiFi

I meant to ask earlier - all of these cards are pci-e, yet the MB you recommended does not look like it has the correct slot.

Am I missing something?

I know I should try it. I bought the card you recommended to make the mods I just can't seem to figure out how to do it.

The JCat card costs more than I want to spend and the PP card seems a little too cottage industry.

I like the fact that the JCat card has the drivers built in.

Did you have to install drivers for the SILVERSTONE to work?

I think you're right Tony about the need for a shoot-out alright! Although with so many variables, perhaps need to separate into DAC comparison and then later into different CA upgrades..

Nige, I guess there are indeed varying levels of audiophile insanity!! And you're right about my case bring more about the style of plug 'n play. Don't necessarily want to keep tweakin' elements on a regular basis. Would like to start with solid enough baseline and then perhaps add some elements over period of time.

Pearse, can I ask if you use the Teradak as your sole source of CA power? Or do you still use a number of additional external power supplies as well as the Teradak? Is the plate to feed the umbilical into the computer a standard size that's easily interfaced to backplate on computer case?

Pearse has lord knows how may supplies that in Scalford were presented like a giant pyramid.

Steve you will be happy with a decent silent pc with some linear supplies. You can either build yourself or farm out to Itemaudio or elsewhere.
If you become infected you can visit Nigel. It is a bit like going to OnethingAudio to look at how they repair old Quad speakers. A bit frightening!

The world is your oyster with Dacs but if trying to match the Wadia you will have to break open the wallet a bit. Luckily you have a few potential candidates available locally to test

probably need to steal sebs for some audio testing
pearses is likely modified to work with all the teddy p and ph supplies

none of us has anything normal as such

I just use the Teradak for the 20 pin ATX connection (main PC connector) Steve and a Paul Hynes 12v, 5v, 5v which took 6 months for delivery and a Teddy Pardo to another regulator for the 1.3v for memory.

If I was to take away the Paul Hynes and the supplies for memory it would not loose too much on sound so I reckon best bang for buck would be the Teradak for all the motherboard connections and SSDs and USB card and you would have a really good system.

The final improvement would be adding a stripped down Win Server 2012 R2 OS, AO 1.31 & JPlay for convenience.

The mounting plate that comes with the Teradak does not suit the low profile case I have so I had to do some cutting and filing to get it installed on my case.
Best to ask and chose a case that works with the Teradak if you go that route.
Cheers, Pearse.

Thanks guys!

Sligolad wrote:The final improvement would be adding a stripped down Win Server 2012 R2 OS, AO 1.31 & JPlay for convenience.

And last, but not least, get that OS working from RAM which will add an additional boost in SQ ;)

Take care
Thomas

is this the back plate?


looks like its made to fit a std atx hole pattern

ie ok for all that are std compliant like fractal node 605

On the group buy we just got the single big umbilical with a choice of fitting plates that were all too big for my Streacom case.
That one looks like the loom for the top end uber supply (820 watt) that Teradak do, the Teradak case looks nice on that one on their website which is where I presume you got it Nige. http://www.teradak.com/products/55.html
Probably would be too much for Steve but you never know, certainly looks the part!!

The 400 watt one would probably be the style of the starting point full ATX unit http://www.teradak.com/products/105.html
I think you can ask for various mounting plates for this to suit larger ATX case designs but not sure.

The first couple of posts on the Group Buy Thread here http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f10-m ... dak-21810/ give a good idea of what is available so choose mounting plate according to case used and ask for a lower wattage ATX model if going for a basic build as a 400 watt should not be needed.
If it is the only off the counter model available for a one off order then best to go with it.

I know this is a bit of a how long is a piece of string question, but how much do you need to spend to get to a reasonable (say, Wadia-level) point on the curve? Put another way: I thought the Meitner was better than the Wadia when heard with Pearse's first incarnation of the Zuma. If I had a Meitner, or maybe a Lampi 4, in my back pocket, how much should I be looking to spend on a PC build?