Tír Na HiFi

Darn it can't seem to fit R2 on 16GB stick. Anyone had any luck with it?
Ignore... I was selecting the wrong drive!

Claus wrote:Darn it can't seem to fit R2 on 16GB stick. Anyone had any luck with it?
Ignore... I was selecting the wrong drive!

Yes thank god there are others like me!

Hoping for a quick reply here....Looking to boot up R2 with GUI in a while. Should I install Intel and Ciunas drivers (somehow) first or will it all happen automatically once it boots up on the NUC?

Same process as per core server. i.e the usual files and the command etc. I did send you the text file?
R2 is much nicer and user friendly

I just PM'ed you about it. Thanks a mill Tony!

It seems to be hanging on "Updating boot code", so I might have to start over... Will be tomorrow night so...

Cheers ;)

I suspect this question has been covered somewhere in the 160 pages of this thread, but searching hasn't thrown up what I need, so excuse me if this is the case.

It is now time to address the power supply to my audio pc.

Basic spec is Asus h61 micro-atx mobo, 16gig ram, 15 Ivybridge (3350P), basic graphic card, 3 sata drives. Wireless and networking are disabled, W8 64bit (W7 shell)firewall disabled. CPU has a big passive cooler and never gets warm). Case is a bit of a wreck, but plan to customer build a chassis next year.

Currently I have a standard fan-cooled ATX psu which is a bit noisy. In simple terms I seem to have two options:

1. Full ATX psu, fanless or thermal-controlled (the Corsairs look a nice option)

2. Something like the dc-dc convertors for sale all over the internet but seem to originate from Mini-Box. I'd need a meaty silent 12v power supply to feed that, obviously.

Would the latter work, would it be better than the first option? Costs seem to work out similar.

Thanks

Mark

LowOrbit wrote:I suspect this question has been covered somewhere in the 160 pages of this thread, but searching hasn't thrown up what I need, so excuse me if this is the case.

It is now time to address the power supply to my audio pc.

Basic spec is Asus h61 micro-atx mobo, 16gig ram, 15 Ivybridge (3350P), basic graphic card, 3 sata drives. Wireless and networking are disabled, W8 64bit (W7 shell)firewall disabled. CPU has a big passive cooler and never gets warm). Case is a bit of a wreck, but plan to customer build a chassis next year.

Currently I have a standard fan-cooled ATX psu which is a bit noisy. In simple terms I seem to have two options:

1. Full ATX psu, fanless or thermal-controlled (the Corsairs look a nice option)

2. Something like the dc-dc convertors for sale all over the internet but seem to originate from Mini-Box. I'd need a meaty silent 12v power supply to feed that, obviously.

Would the latter work, would it be better than the first option? Costs seem to work out similar.

Thanks

Mark

three battery pico psu>three linear pico psu> 1 linear pico psu> seasonic 460 silent atx ps> standard atx ps

they maybe better ways we haven't found yet and very open to suggestions

three linear is the current foolproof way here
even though are a few of us running batteries

still working on making the batteries more simple slowly

LowOrbit wrote:I suspect this question has been covered somewhere in the 160 pages of this thread, but searching hasn't thrown up what I need, so excuse me if this is the case.

It is now time to address the power supply to my audio pc.

Basic spec is Asus h61 micro-atx mobo, 16gig ram, 15 Ivybridge (3350P), basic graphic card, 3 sata drives. Wireless and networking are disabled, W8 64bit (W7 shell)firewall disabled. CPU has a big passive cooler and never gets warm). Case is a bit of a wreck, but plan to customer build a chassis next year.

Currently I have a standard fan-cooled ATX psu which is a bit noisy. In simple terms I seem to have two options:

1. Full ATX psu, fanless or thermal-controlled (the Corsairs look a nice option)

2. Something like the dc-dc convertors for sale all over the internet but seem to originate from Mini-Box. I'd need a meaty silent 12v power supply to feed that, obviously.

Would the latter work, would it be better than the first option? Costs seem to work out similar.

Thanks

Mark

If you look back a couple of pages Mark you will see DC to DC convertor with a meaty Maplin 12v Linear supply as probably stage 1 to better sound, after that it is multiple Linear/Battery approach as per Niges solutions. Really depends on how far you want to go. Cheers, Pearse.

Sligolad wrote:Finally got some time to start on a diagram of the wiring on my Zuma Audio PC which includes PPA kit.

There may be a mistake or two but so far it looks OK so make sure the right voltage goes to the right location if you feel the desire to go this route.

This is not a standard as I am no electrical engineer but it works well for me.

I just need to hit the start button to boot up and the start button again to shutdown.

I am open to all suggestions/comments on rights or wrongs, have fun!!!

Cheers, Pearse.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jci962nb5hcwt32/pfRO0TX939

OK, so I am thinking this is a reasonable target.

Looks do-able. (Without the SotM or PPA cards, in my case - at least for now)

Mark

Nothing like the deep end
like your style