Tír Na HiFi

Sorry Adam had a look at this last week but haven't had much time to post since. The work really looks fantastic
and some of your ideas are similar to what I hope to do when my power supply is installed in a box.

We have dispatched our best available technical resource to Canada on an all expenses paid trip to investigate the various claims you are making for thick metal and timber. All waiting with deep concern our pockets might require raiding again to fill up our aluminium boxes with some more metals and timbers.

sima66 wrote: The ticker - the better dampening.
Not all the metal sound the same and not all the wood sound the same!
Or better, they all sound different!

I figured about different metals and different woods, but I don't have enough patience to try a bunch of different materials, sorry I'm too lazy.

But Maple seems to be considered an "audiophile" wood, so it seems like a good candidate, and I guess you like it.

BTW, I also use brass hardware, I stay away from steel screws/nuts for my audio gear, as much as possible.

I have a pretty thick piece of brass, maybe 1/2 inch, that wasn't used for it's intended project, I may try to use that for a dampening experiment. I also use constrained layer dampening sometimes, but not as much as I should.

Randy

Thanks Tony, but so far the box is still only for the look......no working yet! :(
The technical support was here and I barely could see his face true the soldering smoke! I will probably not recognize him in broad light and clean air! :)

Randy, maple is the best for the money.....also black walnut. The best that I tried is Ebony, but far more expensive.
As for the brass, that's my favourite #1. Because of me they started the night shift in the brass factory.....to be able to keep up with demands! :)

Sounds like good fun! and sure he never looks comfortable unless he has a soldering iron in one hand & mobo clocks stuck behind each ear.

tony wrote:Sounds like good fun! and sure he never looks comfortable unless he has a soldering iron in one hand & mobo clocks stuck behind each ear.

Looks like very accurate description! :)))))

What is the need for the two +12v and the one -12v wires on the MoBo 24 pin connector?
Or, can PC run without them?

sima66 wrote:What is the need for the two +12v and the one -12v wires on the MoBo 24 pin connector?
Or, can PC run without them?

You need +12V. In my system, I measured a draw of around 0.75A on the 12V on the 24 pin connector.

BTW, I also measured over 2A of 12V on the 4 pin ATX, which is what draws the most power in my PC.

I didn't need -12V, I don't think -12V is used in modern MB's.

So, with my MB, I feed it 3.3, 5 and 12V, and it works fine. I think I tied Power Good to the 5V line.

Randy

I'm interested only in the "+" & "-" 12v from the 24 MoBo pin.
Somebody mentioned that the 12v are just for the MoBo fans, HDs and CDroom, which I have none.
If that is true than I dont need them at all!

sima66,

That sure would be neat if what you have heard is true.

Please report if you can post without it attached.

Like many things in WINDOWS, whether it is needed or not the damned thing wants it there anyway.

Almost as amazing as the current required by Randy's +12 volts rail. Which with re-reading I think he meant to say 5 volts since he said pin 4. The 5 volts rail is the high current rail these days.

Very interesting ...

You only need the single 12v next to the Purple Adam.
You do not need the -12v at all.