Tír Na HiFi

That's just what we need.

Even smaller components!

rickmcinnis wrote:That's just what we need.

Even smaller components!

Well it wasn't too bad when we were just removing them replacing or stacking will require a lot of patience and I don't have much of it :(

I Dont like to see the release of a finished product as The OEM boards will be in competition with it which is bad for price and further development

bit of a tempory botch job
but this is revealing a very subtle layer of detail ive never heard before
its a very natural sound, very fluid and solid

however there is a little wool in the bass sometimes (im been very critical )
hoping Paul the filter expert has found the possible flaw and solution

vref, 3.3v rail and the filters/firmware seems to be the areas for most improvement for me

has anyone tried an external vref yet?
must be the vref circuit that was doing the harm, with the lifepo4 it was unacceptably wooley which may be down to my poor test implementation

HOW MUCH CAPACITANCE IS TOO MUCH?
it seems pretty apparent to me that when finding a reference point there may not be such a thing as too much capacitance

I've just added a 5f supercap per rail
nothing went wrong but it did take a few seconds to charge
Dynamics further improved
background is darker
Detail is fantastic

Nigel,

I worry you are gong to have trouble.

You should do what HIFI ARDUINO did and tape those caps to the back fo the board and use a 28 gauge silver wire through the vias to attach to the existing cap.

You will eventually break the solder joint and worse pull the pad up.

Don't say you weren't warned!

Take care,

rickmcinnis wrote:Nigel,

I worry you are gong to have trouble.

You should do what HIFI ARDUINO did and tape those caps to the back fo the board and use a 28 gauge silver wire through the vias to attach to the existing cap.

You will eventually break the solder joint and worse pull the pad up.

Don't say you weren't warned!

Take care,

yea i agree there is great risk of lifting the pads
it's not meant to be a permanent solution

I have found my impermanent installs can last longer than they should.

I am concerned with turn on - the resistor ladder is going to stay on - who knows how long? From what I remember SOEKRIS saying the "input" side of the board needs to be on first so if you turned the thing off and the ladder was still on by virtue of the supercaps you might have a problem.

I feel sure the FPGA needs to be powered first and then the ladder.

Have you turned it on and off yet?

Just curious.

(still waiting for my board to be returned to me with Paul's recommended resistors)

rickmcinnis wrote:I have found my impermanent installs can last longer than they should.

very true but ive the resistors to change out yet so wont be that long

I am concerned with turn on - the resistor ladder is going to stay on - who knows how long? From what I remember SOEKRIS saying the "input" side of the board needs to be on first so if you turned the thing off and the ladder was still on by virtue of the supercaps you might have a problem.

I feel sure the FPGA needs to be powered first and then the ladder.

Have you turned it on and off yet?

ok on power up it takes a couple of seconds for sound to come from the resistor ladder about 1.5v
its full charged around 6 mins and strangely enough doesn't sound proper good till then:)
and something similar on power off and sound immediately stops with the switch
no pops or clicks

Just curious.

(still waiting for my board to be returned to me with Paul's recommended resistors)

i got a metcal ps 900 i find work with it to be much easier than with my previous cheap ass irons
but i still have to deal with the shaky hands
on further listening the sound has no sense of harshness whatsoever while retaining the detail (which is rather unusual)
the sound is really clean, transients are agile, bass is tight
some tracks don't improve as much as others and well recorded stuff really shines
but we seen this all before with improvements

had a non a non audiophile friend that just happened to be over, he's heard many of my previous digital audio efforts before but this time was pretty much astounded with the clarity

really need to make it travel proof and a/b it against something proper good, i dont think theres a totaldac or the likes about so pearses lampi level 7 will one of the best candidates
its detail is fantastic while having a little warmth from the valves
i also need to take out the dual pcm1794 too but i doubt it stands a chance at this stage but it may be a little warmer

That is good news.

I think I have found someone who will install my resistors. Someone who knows what she is doing with SMD so I hope to be back at it soon.

Did not realize you were using valves in your system.

I have been collecting parts for a 4P1L line stage for digital and turntable. I figure it will be a tone control as much as a gain stage. Had always had something glowing in my system but the last few years no valves at all. From what I hear this one is worth the trouble. A directly heated valve so it will require much care but those things do have a good sound. In the past when used as an amplifier that "good" sound was smeared across everything to the point that everything had the same sound. This one is not supposed to be like that.

So, you are saying that the SOEKRIS is shutting off the power to the ladder even though those caps would keep it running for (that is the question - you wonder how long they would keep it running?) ...

Still wonder if there would be some good in using one for the basic positive supply for the front end of the thing?

AND would one work as well as the A123 for the clock? Don't have my board so I cannot see where the vias are but could be much simpler to implement ...

Take care,

This low pass filter cap is doing the world of harm it is much better without it
Dunno if there's other types and values caps that will work well here
I feel filters is kinda like sweeping the dust under the rug or tipping the baby out of the bath water