I've triple checked everything and can find nothing amiss. I have tried using different firmware, with and without input isolators, and can not get anything on the output. Its almost as if there is a 'mute' switch on!
I must have damaged something, but all the voltages check ok, the FPGA responds and nothing is giving me any indication of being faulty.
I'm away for the next ten days, so will see if a clear head can find anything when I get back, otherwise I'll have to order a replacement board, or maybe wait for the OEM...
I forgot I had already asked about this here. Realized I was wrong in my thinking - spending too much time ripping CDs.
I now know one must use the raw output. In the interim since asking the last time I looked at the boards and thought those two banks per channel were some kind of balanced operation. Jumping to conclusions and questions before trying something as elementary as thinking.
I now remember telling you the invert option just switches channels - not polarity.
I have asked the fellow at dBpoweramp if there is some switch I can put in the registry to rip the CD in the opposite polarity. Can't wait to read the derisive posts about what nonsense that is. Worth a try though ... I have ripped my CDs so many times in the last six months what's another time.
Now that i am settling in with the system I am hearing the polarity problems on some disks. Takes awhile to get acclimated after a big change - clock and PS mods.
I am using the BRAINBOX USB RS232 adapter (upon your recommendation) - as I said at DIYAudio I do not hear any problems but would rather be sure that I am keeping computer noise out of the SOEKRIS.
What do you think of using something like the INTONA between the computer and the BRAINBOX? Do you think it would work?
I am nervous about feeding those signals right where the inputs are and I am thinking an outboard isolator connected to the regular serial port might actually be better that using the isolated port. Plus I do not want to do any soldering on the board!
Not that I am anxious to spend the money but I think it might be the easiest solution. I like the idea of dimdim's ARDUINO but I do not care about having a remote and I figure I would spend more money on building a version of that than I would with the INTONA.
I wish the INTONA could be separated from the USB power.
Do you think I might get the same effect as INTONA using the AD device powered by the battery scheme?
If you are not listening for polarity there is no excuse now since it is easy in umanager. Can't believe it took me so long to find this out. Of course, I should be able to believe it. Hardly the first time ...