sima66 wrote:Luckily no drama for the rest of the night! :)
No drama, but BIG surprise!!!
I never expected this much of a difference between the PPA clock and the one from Nigel!
To my disappointment surprise went in the way that I didn't expected.
Nigel's clock sound much more brighter, tinier, screamy in comparation to PPA.
PPA clock, so relaxed, more body, a totally analog sound. Now makes me wonder how the OCXO would sound?!!
PPA clock is far away from mobo and with much beter insulation, but still powered from mobo, and the other clock is like a leaf in the wind, crucified between 3 wires, but powered directly with 3.3v!
What makes this difference, I don't know, but soon as the first song started I knew that something is wrong!
Again, this is in my system and my impressions!
thats the smoothing effect of the ppa transformer
it could be that something else needed adjusting
is there settings on the tweeters or turn em off
or try without the stainless steel sphere thingy you have
have you tried the ppa with 3.3v yet?
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
sima66 wrote:Luckily no drama for the rest of the night! :)
No drama, but BIG surprise!!!
I never expected this much of a difference between the PPA clock and the one from Nigel!
To my disappointment surprise went in the way that I didn't expected.
Nigel's clock sound much more brighter, tinier, screamy in comparation to PPA.
PPA clock, so relaxed, more body, a totally analog sound. Now makes me wonder how the OCXO would sound?!!
PPA clock is far away from mobo and with much beter insulation, but still powered from mobo, and the other clock is like a leaf in the wind, crucified between 3 wires, but powered directly with 3.3v!
What makes this difference, I don't know, but soon as the first song started I knew that something is wrong!
Again, this is in my system and my impressions!
thats the smoothing effect of the ppa transformer
it could be that something else needed adjusting
is there settings on the tweeters or turn em off
or try without the stainless steel sphere thingy you have
have you tried the ppa with 3.3v yet?
Super tweeters are working in very high frequencies and turning them off, you'll get only less air and separation and loosen bass!
In this case there in almost no bass, no weight, like listening to some small bookshelf speakers.
I believe that I never tried 3.3v into PPA clock, because, like I already mentioned, I specifically asked PPA about that and he said 5v ONLY!
Judging from my last experience and luck, I think is better to stay away from that!
The next thing that I'm planing to do is to get cleaner 5v from my Teradak, instead powering from mobo.
sima66 wrote:No drama, but BIG surprise!!!
I never expected this much of a difference between the PPA clock and the one from Nigel!
To my disappointment surprise went in the way that I didn't expected.
Nigel's clock sound much more brighter, tinier, screamy in comparation to PPA.
PPA clock, so relaxed, more body, a totally analog sound. Now makes me wonder how the OCXO would sound?!!
PPA clock is far away from mobo and with much beter insulation, but still powered from mobo, and the other clock is like a leaf in the wind, crucified between 3 wires, but powered directly with 3.3v!
What makes this difference, I don't know, but soon as the first song started I knew that something is wrong!
Again, this is in my system and my impressions!
Interesting because that is what I am beginning to think. I go the PPA card back from Paul Pang but haven't put it back in yet. Nigel's card initially bowled me over with the detail but after some listening it doesn't have the body of the Pang. Found myself moving to a music player that I feel gives more warmth to the sound to address this.
Is it possible more noise on PPang card gives a more rounded presentation? Will see how I get on when Pang card goes back in.
sima66 wrote:No drama, but BIG surprise!!!
I never expected this much of a difference between the PPA clock and the one from Nigel!
To my disappointment surprise went in the way that I didn't expected.
Nigel's clock sound much more brighter, tinier, screamy in comparation to PPA.
PPA clock, so relaxed, more body, a totally analog sound. Now makes me wonder how the OCXO would sound?!!
PPA clock is far away from mobo and with much beter insulation, but still powered from mobo, and the other clock is like a leaf in the wind, crucified between 3 wires, but powered directly with 3.3v!
What makes this difference, I don't know, but soon as the first song started I knew that something is wrong!
Again, this is in my system and my impressions!
Interesting because that is what I am beginning to think. I go the PPA card back from Paul Pang but haven't put it back in yet. Nigel's card initially bowled me over with the detail but after some listening it doesn't have the body of the Pang. Found myself moving to a music player that I feel gives more warmth to the sound to address this.
Is it possible more noise on PPang card gives a more rounded presentation? Will see how I get on when Pang card goes back in.
pang card has a weightier smoothing effect at the expense of resolution
just depends what your into
as far as audiophile digital audio goes i think super modded pcs will be taking the back seat to the likes of the sd card players
with the soekris it easily beats moderately modded pc
sd card player, modded soekris dac, class a lifepo4 amp or gb class a/b amp, diy open baffle speakers based on project audio mundorf trio 10's
Since my last post I never had any problem with my playing.
I swaped the clock so many times and change RAM OS and wtfplay so many times and always play no problem. Mistery unsolved, bud disapeard!
Since I like it the PPA clock because was more analog and more body and even better when powered with 5v from Teradak, decided to make more permanent connection (instead of aligator grips).
I used the litz copper silverd wire in teflon (the one most of us use) and soldered directly to PPA clock pins.
I soldered the way that pin and wire were in parallel and touching eachother for best contact.
Since then, I still have the details, but I lost the body, the fulness and I have no frickin' idea why!!
The sound is so bright!!!!
Can the soder with better wire sound worst that the shity aligator wire?!!!
Is it posibile that I damaged something while soldering?
sima66 wrote:Since my last post I never had any problem with my playing.
I swaped the clock so many times and change RAM OS and wtfplay so many times and always play no problem. Mistery unsolved, bud disapeard!
Since I like it the PPA clock because was more analog and more body and even better when powered with 5v from Teradak, decided to make more permanent connection (instead of aligator grips).
I used the litz copper silverd wire in teflon (the one most of us use) and soldered directly to PPA clock pins.
I soldered the way that pin and wire were in parallel and touching eachother for best contact.
Since then, I still have the details, but I lost the body, the fulness and I have no frickin' idea why!!
The sound is so bright!!!!
Can the soder with better wire sound worst that the shity aligator wire?!!!
Is it posibile that I damaged something while soldering?
sima66 wrote:Since my last post I never had any problem with my playing.
I swaped the clock so many times and change RAM OS and wtfplay so many times and always play no problem. Mistery unsolved, bud disapeard!
Since I like it the PPA clock because was more analog and more body and even better when powered with 5v from Teradak, decided to make more permanent connection (instead of aligator grips).
I used the litz copper silverd wire in teflon (the one most of us use) and soldered directly to PPA clock pins.
I soldered the way that pin and wire were in parallel and touching eachother for best contact.
Since then, I still have the details, but I lost the body, the fulness and I have no frickin' idea why!!
The sound is so bright!!!!
Can the soder with better wire sound worst that the shity aligator wire?!!!
Is it posibile that I damaged something while soldering?
Please any thoughts?
silver wire - tick
bright sound - tick
what's the problem ?
It's gauge 16 copper silvered wire in teflon jacket.
Problem is that is way to bright now!
If you can imagine to play mqn from 3-4 levels higher that "real time priority".
Detailed and thin!
sima66 wrote:Since my last post I never had any problem with my playing.
I swaped the clock so many times and change RAM OS and wtfplay so many times and always play no problem. Mistery unsolved, bud disapeard!
Since I like it the PPA clock because was more analog and more body and even better when powered with 5v from Teradak, decided to make more permanent connection (instead of aligator grips).
I used the litz copper silverd wire in teflon (the one most of us use) and soldered directly to PPA clock pins.
I soldered the way that pin and wire were in parallel and touching eachother for best contact.
Since then, I still have the details, but I lost the body, the fulness and I have no frickin' idea why!!
The sound is so bright!!!!
Can the soder with better wire sound worst that the shity aligator wire?!!!
Is it posibile that I damaged something while soldering?
Please any thoughts?
silver wire - tick
bright sound - tick
what's the problem ?
It's gauge 16 copper silvered wire in teflon jacket.
Problem is that is way to bright now!
If you can imagine to play mqn from 3-4 levels higher that "real time priority".
Detailed and thin!
think new solder takes a while to calm down, so that could be the reason. That's what I've found before, anyway. Silver does give a thin sound in my system whether solid core or silver coated copper, though I do use silver solder.