AUDIO PC: Direct power to motherboad 24 and 4pin (picoless)

[sima66]

No more than 3 pics per post!

[randytsuch]

No more than 3 pics per post!

Interesting.

I've not seen the use of wooden blocks to support boards like that.
I use standoffs that are at least 25mm, and usually 50 mm tall, to get the boards away from the chassis.

Wondering if there is a specific type of wood that you used?

Very cool, thanks for sharing.

Randy

[rickmcinnis]

I loved seeing the wood used for support.

I am a believer in balsa for this purpose - good damping and very low dielectric constant AND easy to use.

Great to see pictures of the battery scheme in a finished state.

My only question is why not put the batteries close to the motherboard and use the leads to connect the "chargers"?

As I work to finish mine - my P24 cable will average five inches in length to the respective battery pack. Not that I know there is something lost with those longer lengths but it couldn't hurt (reference to A BRIDGE TOO FAR, for fun)

[sima66]

I used maple wood - more for dampening reasons! :) I did not use any steel screws or bolts (brass or SS) in the PS. Everything is non-magnetic!

The reason why I have a longer leads is that I already have a "packed" PC and there is no room for anything else!
I'm building another one (Nigel does) and one of the ideas is to mount MoBo on top of the PS (on top cover) and have it like one unit. Will see in the end.
I definitely agree with the "shorter - the better" (not the ladies that I know)!

[rickmcinnis]

A good plan.

I worry that maple might be too hard. I know it is hard to work with. All is compromise. Not making a judgement as far as choice of wood!

Your trapezoidal prisms are very attractive. Looks like something I could cut my fingers off attempting to make!

Thanks for the pictures!

[Sligolad]

Really nice work Adam and like everyone else who commented here I love the use of wood in the build.
Given you have gone so far and invested so much i will stick my neck out and recommend you try the PPA V3 USB card instead of the SOTM card, give it a few days to settle and i think you will like what you hear.

I am looking forward to getting the teradak PS and doing some mods on it in the new year to try to get somewhere near where you are at now but i think what you have done with your design is really as close as you can get t a great PS with a home build.
If you can find better regulators then these can be easily swapped in to test.

Cheers, Pearse.

[sima66]

Really nice work Adam and like everyone else who commented here I love the use of wood in the build.
Given you have gone so far and invested so much i will stick my neck out and recommend you try the PPA V3 USB card instead of the SOTM card, give it a few days to settle and i think you will like what you hear.

I am looking forward to getting the teradak PS and doing some mods on it in the new year to try to get somewhere near where you are at now but i think what you have done with your design is really as close as you can get t a great PS with a home build.
If you can find better regulators then these can be easily swapped in to test.

Cheers, Pearse.

Thanks Pearse.
Since I have the big Teradak PS powering my full PC, this was just an experiment to compare powering the SSD's and the upgraded clocks with the battery PS. I just had the Regulators from my previous project and if this Battery PS works better I will upgrade them.
We were able to do only one swap on SSD's and the battery's start to discharge rapidly! I almost lost my 512Gb music SSD. We were able to recover the SSd, but all the music is lost! :(

I will go with Nigel's USB card for now.

Just for the record, I used maple under the regulators, but the faceplate is lapacho wood, which is more dense a harder than maple and that is the natural colour.
Under the transformers and under the batteries I have 3.5"x0.75" aircraft aluminium.

[sima66]

This is my Teradak now and without all the "to many" connections and cables.

Still I want to ad one bigger (ticker) aluminium or brass plate under the toroids for the vibrations and probably try to "encapsulate" them in the cooper, as much as the wiring aloud.
Shielding the cables also, but still looking for the RIGHT way to do it!

[randytsuch]

Just for the record, I used maple under the regulators, but the faceplate is lapacho wood, which is more dense a harder than maple and that is the natural colour.

Under the transformers and under the batteries I have 3.5"x0.75" aircraft aluminium.

I was wondering if the darker wood was different, never heard of lapacho though.

0.75"? Wow, that must be heavy. Does thicker metal make a difference. Never tried that either.

Randy

[sima66]

Just for the record, I used maple under the regulators, but the faceplate is lapacho wood, which is more dense a harder than maple and that is the natural colour.

Under the transformers and under the batteries I have 3.5"x0.75" aircraft aluminium.

I was wondering if the darker wood was different, never heard of lapacho though.

0.75"? Wow, that must be heavy. Does thicker metal make a difference. Never tried that either.

Randy

The ticker - the better dampening.
Not all the metal sound the same and not all the wood sound the same!
Or better, they all sound different!