Build a dedicated Audio PC

[Fran]

Tonight I finally connected up my 2nd linear supply for the USB3 stick. Yet another jump - there's a good step forward in realism, soundstage.... all that good stuff.


Mine is a little different to Nigels. I have a single 8A supply and from that I have 12V supplied to the picoPSU. I have a second linear regulator then supplying the +5v for the USB stick. On my build, I have a lead from the USB3 mobo headers that I plug the stick into. I cut away the moulding around the plug and disconnected the +5V coming from the mobo and replaced it with the linear. I do use a 3rd supply but its to run a fan on the CPU as I cheaped out and didn't buy a streamcom case - I repurposed an old amp case. So I used a regular CPU fan but used another little controller circuit to keep the speed down. As a result its pretty much silent.

So the setup now is:

AudioPC:

basic zuma spec, with i7 3770 and 8gb ram
linear supplies to picoPSU and USB3 key which is running core server with the script. Underclocked CPU, underclocked and undervolted RAM.


ControlPC - samsung RV511 with SSD and 8gb ram, running W8, pretty much bog standard.

jplay, jkdac32, nothing fancy regarding cables etc.

[nige2000]

Nice work,Nige. Maplins must be very happy with you :) What current does the motherboard plug draw?

i assume you mean the four pin cpu socket on the motherboard
it varies ken depending on the chipset h67, z77 z87 etc the newer ones are easier on power, and the processor used i3 i5 i7 whether their low power versions which are pre underclocked for power consumption. as ive underclocked to 1.6 im only drawing a shade over 1 amp on the i3 build and between .67 and 1 amp on the i7 build
non underclocked they could reach up to 2.6 amps at full throttle

picos are drawing between 1.4 and 2.5 amps

[nige2000]

Tonight I finally connected up my 2nd linear supply for the USB3 stick. Yet another jump - there's a good step forward in realism, soundstage.... all that good stuff.


Mine is a little different to Nigels. I have a single 8A supply and from that I have 12V supplied to the picoPSU. I have a second linear regulator then supplying the +5v for the USB stick. On my build, I have a lead from the USB3 mobo headers that I plug the stick into. I cut away the moulding around the plug and disconnected the +5V coming from the mobo and replaced it with the linear. I do use a 3rd supply but its to run a fan on the CPU as I cheaped out and didn't buy a streamcom case - I repurposed an old amp case. So I used a regular CPU fan but used another little controller circuit to keep the speed down. As a result its pretty much silent.

So the setup now is:

AudioPC:

basic zuma spec, with i7 3770 and 8gb ram
linear supplies to picoPSU and USB3 key which is running core server with the script. Underclocked CPU, underclocked and undervolted RAM.


ControlPC - samsung RV511 with SSD and 8gb ram, running W8, pretty much bog standard.

jplay, jkdac32, nothing fancy regarding cables etc.

id be curious fran
what the temps would be like with the fan disconnected as theres a fair sized headsink you got there and with it been underclocked it might not get too warm

would it be possible to reroute the cpu fan supply to the 4 pin cpu socket but it would need to supply 2 amps at least as there is a surge on startup
id imagine it would provide a better return

[minionas]

Thanks Nige for detailed info on your ps supplies! I yesterday received few small 5v1a linears from ebay and was not able to follow this thread as i was re-pin'ing the connectors to make one sata another one molex. Internet pictures served me well for this. But i'll follow yours after i'll get bigger maplins, especially for cpu connector, as i was already intending to seach for a pin layout:)
Your mess looks like a real audiophile cave:) It does not scare me, but my wife...i would not want to show her this :D

[Fran]

I tried turning off the fan last night - but the heatsink got pretty hot pretty quick. You really do need the proper heatpipe/passive cooling solution to go fanless I think. Heatsinks work on dumb physics, and you can't ignore the rules. Turn back on the fan at its usual low speed (silent) and the heatsink cools within about 30 secs to lukewarm.

I took all measurements of heat with my specially calibrated middle finger.......


Fran

[minionas]

Fran, i have same situation: can't go fanless because of the heat, do not wan't go other case with sufficient passive cooling because of the price. So need to power the fan externally. What output ps would be enough to get ~500-600rpms?

[Ken Moreland]

This fan from QuietPC http://www.quietpc.com/nf-r8 keeps my CPU cool and comes with adjustment adapters to allow you to slow it right down. I can keep an eye on the temp with Core Temp http://www.softpedia.com/get/Windows-Wi ... Temp.shtml. QuietPC are very helpful and if you tell them your requirement they will promptly suggest a recommended fan.

[nige2000]

Was worth a try anyway
I like your calibration meter ive got one of them myself I always have it with me.
still think you would have better sq running the fan of the mb and running the cpu socket off the linear
I know its not ideal


nige

[Fran]

You need very little to power the fan. A small wallwart putting out 5-12V will work fine. I used a circuit to make sure it always starts, but I'd say chance it and see does it work - a small potentiometer in line should allow you to drop the fan speed. If you have that kind of thing to hand you can use the cheapo fan that comes with the chip fine, no need to fork out for higher end ones.

I still have my other maplin supply, so I might just think about hooking that up. This is really getting bigger than I wanted!!



Fran

[nige2000]

This fan from QuietPC http://www.quietpc.com/nf-r8 keeps my CPU cool and comes with adjustment adapters to allow you to slow it right down. I can keep an eye on the temp with Core Temp http://www.softpedia.com/get/Windows-Wi ... Temp.shtml. QuietPC are very helpful and if you tell them your requirement they will promptly suggest a recommended fan.

i think were trying to not have a fan motor on the audio pc power source more so than worried about fan noise, but i think those adapters your on about will help both issues
(strange i thought id find those volt lowering adapters on ebay but i dont see them)

Fanless and near silent cpu coolers tend to be very large it takes a large case to fit them

theres no easy option i could see thats why i got the streacom fc10 which was insane money